26/3/14 Cu chi, cunning traps & coconuts

Wednesday 26^th Cu Chi tunnels

An early start to sit and wait for the bus to fetch us for a day trip to the 265 km network of underground tunnels dug near the banks of the Saigon river over several decades of war against the French and Americans. Some 16.000 Viet Cong lived there undetected throughout the war.

It is almost 2 hours drive out there and the jovial host chatted away almost constantly about this and that, progressively getting more and more anti-US. Although he extolled the merits of Buddhism and forgetting the past and forgiveness being the best revenge, he has a way to go yet. He rolled out the “Americans invaded Vietnam to try and control the South China Sea” version of history, which he portrayed as Step 1 in a “domino theory” on their part. We had to hear how many bombs they dropped and how much Agent Orange they poured on the country.

This was a prelude to an unannounced stop at a sheltered workshop where disabled people work on artworks based on cutting up tiny pieces of eggshell or mother of pearl, which they stick to wood and then etch with sharp blades and paint. The wood is usually lacquered. As the guide said, the product was hugely expensive.

At Cu Chi, we walked round a large area of forest, which has apparently grown back after being denuded with Agent Orange. I knew that North Vietnamese had gone underground to escape bombing but not that there were large tunnel complexes so close to Saigon way down in South Vietnam.

We were taken around by the guide from the bus. At this stage, he abandoned all pretence of forgiveness and spoke with pride and relish of how the fighters hid from Americans, laid booby traps to kill or maim them, and popped out of hiding to shoot them and blow up their tanks. We had been treated on arrival with a 10 minute grainy, jumpy black and white newsreel about the fighters in the tunnels, watching them being awarded medals as Killing American Hero or Destroying Tank Hero.

 Just big enough to drop into

 The 1st swing door trap. Cunningly disguised with fake turf.  Bamboo spikes in the pit.

 

After walking from one site to the next, we arrived at a shelter under which they had recreated a selection of the pit traps, studded with bamboo spears or steel knives. The guide moved from one to the next, demonstrating gleefully how each one opened up to impale Americans, drop them between rotating wheels of knives, drop them into a “collapsed deck chair” which slammed knives into their heads from the sides etc. Finally, the one which clearly pleased him the most, hung behind a doorway and slammed down if the door was opened, shoving several hinged plates of knives into the first man in, at chest, groin and thigh height.

 As shown in the video we watched the local guerrilla fighters could have been anyone in the village including teenage girls.  While the Viet Cong wore uniforms the guerrillas wore normal clothing. Spot the dangerous ones?

 He was very proud of this American tank they had blown up.

 Just a few of the lethal traps.

 

On that happy note, we were invited into a sample tunnel, thoughtfully enlarged considerably, as the guide took great and repeated pleasure in telling us, to accommodate our fat Western bodies. He seemed oblivious to the largest members of the party, built like typical Russians, although they turned out to be Polish (does that make them Westerners?) Janine went through the first 20m section, after which they reduced progressively to the 40cm by 30 cm of the originals. I took care of the luggage on the surface J

 

The firing range was a huge hit with most of the passengers where you can fire an AK47 for $2.00 a bullet.  While we had been walking around the site we could hear the gunshots of other groups and it was kind of eerie being in a previous theatre of war and hearing very loud gunfire close by.

We returned to our original haunt for early dinner, hoping to see the lady who carries a tray of the folding greeting cards. We were ready to buy some but she didn’t turn up. The restaurant has removed all its chairs from the pavement, leaving them just 5 downstairs, while the family from the alley opposite are still camped right on the corner making very fast food.

 For lovers of orange.  Spot the tarps, motorbike and kids clothing.

 

After normal main courses, we went berserk and lashed out on desserts, including a fresh coconut, filled right up with the whole exotic fruit salad mix and topped with coconut ice cream, with a mug of coconut milk on the side. (Note to self – Timmy Time at 8.15am Monday)

 mmm mmmm

 

We defied the traffic again to the large markets and criss-crossed the stalls looking for a few specifics, most of which we found and successfully bargained for. After that we were ready for bed.

25/3/14 Buffet, buses & bloody T'shirts

Tuesday 25^th Saigon again.

We had the full buffet again today after yesterday’s brekky was a small selection of main courses. Our young bellboy had booked us on one of the buses up to Saigon and they sent a van to fetch us at 9.30. The bus was full and we ended up with numbered seats that were suddenly changed to the very back corner of the bus. Not very good. The people in front were reclining their seats, which left our row with no room for our legs. I had a local with a flat-topped crewcut who was built like a refrigerator in front of me so I just shoved my knees into the back of his chair and fended him off.

It was only a 2 hour drive and we had cunningly selected a bus which terminated in the same street as our hotel and only 300m away. We rolled our new suitcase down through the centre of the park and got there very easily.

We lunched, cleaned up, napped and collected our bag from the storeroom. A light dinner and then we headed down to the big markets half way down our street. We quickly did a deal for Tshirts and a couple of small things and then headed back.

On the way we popped into a souvenir shop and were quite taken with the lacquered woodwork, some of it inlaid with mother of pearl, and collected a few pieces.

24/3/14 Meandering, Military Museum & Monkeys

Monday 24^th Meandering and Military Museum

It was a day of languid walks, a couple of which went uphill to the Worldwide Arms Museum, a fascinating individually-owned collection of weaponry and uniforms from Greco-Roman times to the present, including suits of armour and machine guns. Really impressive. Most unusually, the guns were out in the open and you could handle them. I was quite stunned to discover how bloody heavy the Thompson guns were – in the Al Capone movies they brandish them like cricket bats but the real things are very cumbersome. As for the Bren guns like Sean Connery hauled up the beach in The Longest Day, you would be just about clapped out after lugging one of those a few hundred metres.

 

 Asia

 European floor

 Zulu warriors (I like how all the models on display are all ethnically exact for the region of the uniform/clothing)

 Aussies

 

The owner (Robert Taylor) turned up just as we were leaving and we had a bit of a chat. Unusual fellow. The whole collection (or at least the half which is presently on display) is housed in a great castle-like building on top of the hill behind the Christ statue. Complete with battlements and a tower, with cannon and Chinese warrior statues poking out through the weapon spaces. He is going to move the whole lot down into the town so that the military can help protect him – apparently he was menaced by a gang of local hoods.  It is currently only open by appointment.

 The view from the lower balcony level.  That is our hotel (P & T ) blocking his view.

 On the rooftop are several species of monkeys who have been rescued.  These are gibbons.

 Looking down on his turret and cannons.

 

We had a final beach walk in the cool of the evening, in between the floodlit trees that we can see from our lofty vantage point. The hotel was just about empty after the holiday makers all went back. We counted 8 rooms with lights.

 Sometimes you just have to be in the right place at the right time.  This local firewood merchant was rolling his log down the hill.  Perfectly controlled and arrived at his destination without hitting a motorbike, vehicle or pedestrian.

 These two pics are for my children who have been going clucky over some newly hatched chickens on the farmlet.  We have also been seeing baby chicks guys.  The hen below had about 20.

 

I (Janine) just want to add that the whole Worldwide arms museum was fantastic.  A real surprise package.  The building in itself was well laid out and distinctive with artwork, full wall friezes and amazing detail.  The collection was professionally displayed.  I really enjoyed the uniform displays but was also very impressed by the very large collections of guns and swords.  Some very old and very rare. If you have the time and are in the area do go and see it.  Well worth it.

 

23/3/14 stroll.sundae, shopping, snooze, skyp, sunset, symphony of lights,

Sunday 23^rd stroll. shopping, snooze, skyp, sunset, symphony of lights, sundae,

We were aware of a party over the road on the pavement until 2.30am but not really disturbed by it due to being 10 floors up. The bed was hard but not unpleasantly so. The brekky buffet was similar to the back beach and we headed off round the bay in the other direction before it got hot.

 Notice the orange boats

 Rides this like a bike, pedalling the oars

 

The weekend crowd was probably at its peak but they didnt get in our way. The pavement cafes were doing well at that end of town. We saw the signs describing the theme park atop the other mountain, which looked interesting but we might try it tomorrow when it will be less crowded.

We made good mileage round the bay and then turned back as it became quite warm and very windy. We veered into town and discovered a very new shopping centre with bowling alleys and lots of electronic games.Noisy. We took time to sample a creamy chocolatey sundae and meandered some more.

 So cute.  In an alcohol shop.

 

Another tangy burger for lunch then we ducked into our cool room with a view for the afternoon. I had 3AW going on the internet to catch the broadcast of the Eagles (very successful) season opener. Janine caught up with nearly all the grandchildren via Skype and bragged shamelessly about our room with the better than Presidential views. The kids were suitably impressed.

We enjoyed a quick tropical sunset on the way round the bay to the little clutch of Aussie pubs and restaurants, where we joined a bunch of old codgers going through their Vietnam routine – arrive by taxi, with young Vietnamese girl, smoke & drink beer, eat the Aussie special (roast beef & Yorkshire pud today), chat with the other old codgers about visas and air fares and golf and then hop back in another taxi .

We replenished our supply of water and Choco Pies and retired to feast on the glorious view of lights and reflections from down the beach and across the bay.

22/3/14 Ding, Dong & delightful views

Saturday 22^nd On Christ’s shoulders

Here it is 9am and we have been down to brekky, walked round the headland, up the innumerable stairs to the statue, taken turns to climb up the staircases inside and stood out in the screaming wind on the shoulders. This statue at 32m is actually slightly taller than the one in Rio, which you cannot get inside. The view from the top is sensational, with panoramic views up both coasts, over the city and out to sea, where all manner of boats of all sizes were ploughing and bouncing their way through the choppy seas.

 

 Back beach

 Stairway to heaven - well to the shoulders of Jesus

 

We did well to be up there so early because, being Saturday, the place was swarming with daytrippers from Saigon. There were about 20 coaches in the parking area by the time we got down.  Only 3 people can fit out on the viewing area on each shoulder and it would have been chaos by the time they all got up there.

The top of the hill had been fortified and two huge guns still command the approaches to the port and the river mouth. We saw what looked like a cruise ship leaving yesterday – was probably the Celebrity Millenium, which is in these waters.

Just on the fringe of town there had been an accident and a taxi with one side of its nose pushed in was perched on top of a scooter out in the middle of an intersection. So they don’t always manage to miss each other. It must have been fairly recent but there was no sign of casualties.

 Ooops

 

We went down and checked out at 11.50, took a taxi (yes paid for one!) round the corner and checked into the Vung Tau P & T Hotel on the front beach by 12.10. They had put us up on the 10^th floor, in the corner deluxe room we had chosen. It is amazing – our room fills the whole end of the building at that point so we have 279 degree views down the coast, right across the bay, out to sea and across the parks and gardens on the waterfront. We just sat in the cool room and watched the fishermen going about their business.

 The view to big mountain

 

The most interesting aspect was the little coracles they rowed out to the boats and shuttled back and forth with nets and stuff. About 5pm we went down and walked the length of the gardens, through the hundreds of locals and visitors who were watching the fishermen, buying fish, playing soccer and just hanging out in families and groups of friends.

We wandered into town and picked up a couple more coconut scrolls from 2 days ago . . ok and muffins and a tiramisu. Back along the beachfront with the sun almost down to the hydrofoil terminal where we had 100% Aussie beef burgers at Lotteria (which doesn’t sell lotto tickets). It would be nice to take a hydrofoil express back to Saigon but they have all been suspended since one of them caught fire a few weeks ago. Apparently they are 40 year old Polish boats.

Back in the room, it is amazing just looking at the lights around the bay. There are no other buildings near us so we just have all the curtains open, watching cable tv and the lights.

 Ever wonder what 5 million dong looked like? 

 

21/3/14 Fishing nets, Fish boats & fish markets

Friday 21^st Moving On

We were up and out by 6.30, taking a long walk up the beach, watching the fishermen in pairs dragging 1cm nets that emptied the water of all the tiny fish. Later on we saw them scraping individual scoops through the gravel and bits of brick (that seemed to have been placed there). They were looking for something under the sand but we didn’t see them catch anything so we don’t know what.

After breakfast we shot off before it heated up, cutting across behind the mountain to look at a few hotels on the front beach. I had scanned them overnight and identified a few. The favourite was the Presidential Suite at a beachfront hotel, but surprisingly there were deluxe rooms that had better views, which is what we were after – having a separate living room does not appeal to us. It is odd that the deluxe room costs more than the Suite and the Presidential, which are both much larger.

So we will be moving in at noon tomorrow for the final 3 days – a very easy transition from where we are, particularly since we now have a case on wheels. We will probably take a taxi even – hey sorry should have warned you to sit down first.

We took a bit of a detour going home through an interesting fish market and then found some interesting shops and sights and some tasty snacks in the bakeries that seem to be dotted around – distinctly French influenced. It was hot by the time we arrived and we were happy to lie low until 4.30, when we headed off around the headland to take the trail up to the Christ statue. Alas, we got to the base and then found that it was fenced and was about to be locked for the night. Never mind – try again in the morning.

The bay always has fishing boats in it, all day and all night.  My guess is that they catch different things at different times of the day.  The market had varieties of shell fish, crabs, very big prawns and a huge variety of fish species.

20/3/14 Breakfast, Bruises, Baggage, Blogging, Bloody Long Walk, Brawl

Thursday 20^th Breakfast, Bruises, Baggage, Blogging, Bloody Long Walk, Brawl

We started the day with the hotel brekky buffet, which had sausage and bacon and eggs plus a whole swag of Vietnamese items, some of which were very interesting and/or tasty. We then set off on one of Janine’s Forced Marches, starting with a long loop behind the 2 mountains, curling round to the “Front Beach”, where there was a “tourist” shopping precinct, zigzagging through that, back round the front of the mountains along the waterfront and then a deceptively long haul round the point and back to the hotel. By then, it was pretty hot and we were wilting.

Along the way, we noticed a massage place in a backstreet and the lady “phoned a friend” (who turned out to be her daughter) to come round and beat us up. Cupping is obviously popular here because we noticed a lady last night who was sporting large red circles on her arms and there was someone in the back room getting it done this morning. Janine thought daughter was strong until Mama went and double teamed on her neck at the end. Mama was one of those mature women with a vicelike grip and the knack of getting through all the overlaying tissues to find delicate bits. Good massages but we both ended up with visible bruises and it wasn’t a comfortable ride. Our money is still on the girls from Saigon who did the hard work but made it feel good.

Half way round the shopping district we noticed a luggage shop and took the opportunity to replace our soft bag on wheels that has been on its last legs since our Gap Year. We took a negotiating break, during which we went and took pot luck at a nearby street stall, where we got lucky with sensational coconut scrolls and a very respectable $1 hamburger with tangy sauce. We enjoy this pot luck approach and use some caution in choosing where to eat.

The front beach had lovely gardens with statues and topiary (sculpted trees).

 

There were fishermen on the beach working on their huge steel traps and lots of big boats out in the bay. Also lots of restaurants and more touristy facilities. We toyed with the idea of moving round this side a for a few more days – the scenery is more interesting and there are better restaurants but we probably wont get such a good room with a balony. Otherwise we could go up to the mountains? Don’t know. We have about 4 spare days.

 This small island is near our hotel

It is Hon Ba or Lady Island.  You can  walk there at low tide over treacherous rocks.  It is  a religious site.

 Christ statue upon hill behind out hotel

 Great dragon topiary - Chris wheeling the new bag home

 

 

We didn’t really have lunch and sat out the afternoon heat in our room with a view. I napped while J put the pictures in 3 days blogs and published them. By sunset we were ready for dinner and wandered down the beach to a place where we had noticed an interesting menu. Dinner was indifferent and characterised by a shrieking match between several generations of the family out front. We had been contemplating another dish but that put the damper on our digestion, so we wandered back to where we had lunch yesterday and had a top up there.

 Ahoy there you scoundrels

 The Black pearl

 Interesting club

 

We finished off the evening watching  cable tv, particularly Things We Lost In The Fire, a quirky film featuring Halle Berry and Benicio del Toro, a vaguely familiar lesser actor with a Best Supporting Actor Oscar. After some time, we noticed that he bore a striking resemblance to Brad Pitt. Later on, we could see Garry Lyon from the  AFL Footy Show. (photo follows) What do you think - Brad or Garry?